Muslin Revival: Rediscovering the Fabric of Royalty
- Niharika Momtaz

- Jul 31
- 3 min read

Once called the "woven air" of the East, Muslin was the jewel of Bengal—so airy and light that whole lengths could slip through a single ring. Emperors donned it. Aristocrats from Europe to Asia coveted it. Yet, during colonial expansion, this extraordinary cloth dimmed and nearly vanished. Today, however, Muslin is reemerging with a force that not only rescues a vanished art but also redefines luxury grounded in sustainability in our interconnected age.
A Glimpse into the Golden Past
Muslin began its life in the delta around Dhaka, now Bangladesh. Artisans wove the cloth from a rare cotton called Phuti karpas, which flourished along the Meghna River. Growing, spinning, and weaving the nearly invisible strands was a ritual of devotion. Craftspeople first spun the fluff into gossamer threads; then, on handlooms driven by foot, they crossed and re-crossed those threads until entire widths shimmered like mist.
A single bolt could demand months of care, each inch glowing with the maker's quiet pride. During the Mughal era, Dhakai Muslin became the crown jewel of Indian textiles, draped on the shoulders of emperors in Delhi and envy in the courts of Versailles. Its sheer grace captivated European traders and dazzled stately homes, marking its wearers as the acme of refinement. Yet the British East India Company shattered this splendor, redirecting the market toward cheap, factory-spun cloth and imposing ruinous trade terms. By the mid-1800s, the delicate loom voices of Muslin makers were nearly lost to silence.
Threads of Muslin Revival
Today, a vibrant revival is stitching the past into the present across Bangladesh. Guided by government programs, non-profits, and visionary artisans, the Dhakai Muslin project carefully re-creates the legendary fabric from indigenous cotton using the ancestral charpoys and oversized shuttles that still harbor the humidity of the old rivers.
Agricultural scientists and textile researchers have found and revived the Phuti karpas cotton, a featherweight strain thought lost to memory. Elders pass on every tip on twist and tread, retraining master weavers; younger hands meanwhile learn the loom in villager classrooms, absorbing stories of Mughal emperors and colonial grief. Fashion designers, from Dhaka studios to global runways, are draping the revived Muslin, letting its cloudlike drape and translucent flush enchant a new generation, and the fabric is finally, quietly, returning to the world's gaze.
More Than Just Fabric
The Muslin revival is bigger than fabric—it's a cultural comeback. It's part of a broader movement for slow fashion, heritage rescue, and fair production. Unlike fabrics that roll off high-speed looms, Muslin's return asks us to think about earth care and skillful hands. It tells a different story than fast fashion, one that cherishes durability, legacy, and human ties.
The revival also lifts rural artisans, especially women, by giving them fair-paying work and a chance to pass down their craft. It stitches together yesterday and tomorrow, giving us a cloth that feels old and fresh at once, anchored in ancient villages but perfectly at home in today's mindful market.
Global Recognition and the Road Ahead
As Bangladesh takes Muslin to international fairs, films, and runways, more people are falling for its story. Museums and cultural halls are adding Dhakai Muslin to their shelves, helping keep its art alive. Still, tough questions lie ahead: How do we guard the craft's soul while making sure it can pay the rent? How do we grow a market without losing the slow, careful hands that make every piece special?
The future of Muslin hinges on a gentle dance between tradition and new ideas. While tech helps us protect old methods and tell gripping stories, and while shoppers crave eco-friendly luxury, Muslin is ready to rise again. It is more than royal cloth; it is a badge of cultural strength and artistic brilliance.
Muslin's new chapter is a journey back to the heart. It's about re-embracing craft, culture, and deep-seated pride. In Bengal, the looms are alive once more, weaving not just threads, but chapters of our past and dreams for tomorrow.




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